Spectacular Spitsbergen (Svalbard)
We are startled from our thoughts when the internal communication system spits out four letters: b-e-ar, b-e-ar, b-e-ar, b-e-ar.
Spitsbergen, June 2014
Introduction
Because we had a special wedding anniversary to celebrate this year, we decided to make our annual vacation a bit more special. My wife wanted to see penguins and opted for Antarctica, but I was more inclined towards an encounter with Ursus Maritimus, literally the sea bear. However, we know it better by its more popular names – polar bear or ice bear. The polar bear is one of the largest land predators in the world, found only in and around the Arctic, mainly living off seals, walruses, beluga whales, and practically anything it encounters, except for penguins (because even though both are polar animals, penguins are only found in Antarctica).
Our final destination of choice was an expedition cruise around Spitsbergen on the MS Expedition, operated by the Canadian organization G Adventures. Spitsbergen (known as Svalbard in Norwegian) is an island group in the Arctic Ocean, approximately 565 km north of Norway, consisting of four larger and about eighty smaller islands. Today, Spitsbergen is part of the Kingdom of Norway. Its precise geographic location is between 74°-81° N and 10°-35° E.
Spitsbergen has an area of approximately 62,000 km2 (twice the size of Belgium), with 60% of it covered by glaciers. Depending on the season, the archipelago is home to 3,000 to 4,000 inhabitants, with about half of them residing in the capital, Longyearbyen.
The name “Spitsbergen” was given by the Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz in 1596 during his third expedition in search of a shorter, northern route to East Asia while en route to Nova Zembla. In 1925, the Norwegian name for the Spitsbergen archipelago was officially designated as “Svalbard,” and “Spitsbergen” specifically refers to the largest island in this archipelago. The other three major islands are Nordaustlandet (Northeast Land), Edgeoya, and Barentsoya (named after… precisely). Together, they form the Svalbard archipelago, and during our trip, we will visit all four islands.
History
The written history of Spitsbergen began in the late sixteenth century when the uninhabited island group was discovered by Willem Barentsz during his third expedition to find the Northeast Passage. The Netherlands was at war with Spain and sought a new route to bypass Spanish galleons and secure the supply of valuable spices from its colonies. During these voyages, the crew endured numerous hardships, and many paid with their lives. However, the survivors’ compelling stories made it clear in our regions that Spitsbergen offered significant opportunities for whaling.
Whaling
While Barentsz initially reported in his writings that there were so many whales swimming off the coast and bays of Spitsbergen that they could barely land their boats, in these pre-Greenpeace times, they managed to nearly wipe out the entire North Atlantic whale population in less than 50 years.
From the 17th century, the Netherlands began commercial whaling with the aim of harvesting whale oil. Whale oil, also known as blubber, is the oil obtained by rendering primarily the fat tissue of whales. From the 17th to well into the 19th century, whale oil was used in soap and candle making, primarily serving as lamp oil. With some exaggeration, we can say that in the 17th century, the economy was as dependent on whale oil as we are on petroleum today. However, the whales were depleted much faster than the oil reserves in Saudi Arabia.
The Dutch Noordsche Compagnie had exclusive rights to Spitsbergen for whaling and established the settlement of Smeerenburg for the purpose of whaling. The name “Smeerenburg” likely refers both to the fat (smeer) of a whale and to the extremely messy business of slaughtering and rendering whale blubber. Attempts were made to permanently inhabit the settlement, but overwintering proved impractical due to the extremely harsh winter conditions. The traces of these temporary settlements, with dozens of whale skeletons, still stand as a silent witness to this gruesome period.
By around 1670, there were so few whales around Spitsbergen that ships had to move to other areas, which ultimately proved commercially unsuccessful. The Netherlands completely abandoned whaling in 1873.
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Fur traders
In the mid-18th century, after nearly all the whales had been hunted to extinction, the Dutch lost their interest in Spitsbergen. During this period, the mainland of the islands once again became a hunting ground, but this time for fur hunters. Initially, these hunters came from Russia, known as the Pomors (a people hailing from the harsh northern regions of Russia and Siberia, accustomed to icy living conditions). They focused on capturing polar bears, Arctic foxes, seals, and walruses, primarily for their fur and valuable pelts. Numerous traces of the primitive settlements and hunting huts of the Pomors can still be found today.
Coal
By the end of the 19th century, interest in the polar regions grew due to expeditions by figures such as Adrian De Gerlache from our own country and the Norwegian Roald Amundsen. This renewed attention also brought Spitsbergen back into focus. Geographers and geologists started studying the islands, revealing that Spitsbergen had rich coal reserves. The coal also seemed relatively easy to extract. In the slowly industrializing Western Europe of the 19th century, this led to a modest version of the gold rush: individuals and companies claimed large parts of Spitsbergen for mining. This remains the case to this day, and the traces of this can be clearly seen in and around Longyearbyen.
Spitsbergen Treaty
In 1920, the Spitsbergen Treaty was established, placing the islands under Norwegian supervision. However, Norwegian sovereignty resulting from the treaty is subject to certain conditions. Norway must allow residents of the countries that signed the treaty the freedom to engage in economic activities on Spitsbergen and the surrounding seas. The archipelago also may not be used for military purposes, and Norway’s ability to impose taxes is limited. The treaty was originally signed by 9 countries. The status of Spitsbergen remains a contentious issue between Norway and Russia to this day. Russia is virtually the only nation to exercise the rights offered by the Spitsbergen Treaty and believes that Norway violates its rights by hindering Russian economic activities on the pretext of protecting nature and/or the environment.
Climate
Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Spitsbergen does not experience extremely cold temperatures, and the waters around the island remain ice-free for most of the year. The average winter temperature is -12°C, while the average summer temperature is +5°C. However, extremes are not out of the question. In March 1986 (traditionally the coldest month in the archipelago), record low temperatures of -46.3 degrees were recorded. In July and August, temperatures range from +4 to +6 degrees, and in Longyearbyen, the temperature on a pleasant summer day can reach +10° to 12°C, although this is quite exceptional even in these times of climate change.
In the lower parts of Spitsbergen, the ground is covered with snow from September to early June, with only a few months (July and August) when the snow has melted. Above 600 meters, there is snow year-round.
About 7 percent of the land is covered with vegetation. In the summer, the top layer of permafrost thaws in sheltered areas, allowing the flora to come to life. Spitsbergen is home to five types of trees, including four species of willows and one type of birch. These trees never grow taller than 30 centimeters and die after a certain point, leading to a local running joke on the island: What should you do if you get lost in a forest on Spitsbergen? Stand up straight.
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Day 1: Brussels – Oslo
On a beautiful June day, we take a flight from Brussels to Oslo. After approximately two hours of flying, we arrive at our destination. We check into a hotel near Gardermoen Airport, about 50 km from the Norwegian capital, Oslo. Thanks to modern technology, an Airport Express train can take you to the city center in less than 20 minutes, with up to six departures per hour. Oslo certainly doesn’t fall short in beauty compared to other Scandinavian capitals like Stockholm or Copenhagen. It has a lot to offer even to the most demanding tourists.
In the afternoon, we choose to visit the Munch Museum, featuring works by the renowned Norwegian painter Edvard Munch (1863-1944). Here, you can admire his most famous work, “The Scream” (Norwegian: “skrik”). Since the painting was stolen from the museum in 2004 and recovered in 2006, it has been permanently guarded by an attendant, which doesn’t always enhance the museum experience.
However, the rest of the day is mainly dedicated to the first World Cup match of the Belgian national team, the Red Devils, against Algeria. The match doesn’t generate much excitement in Norway, as they did not qualify. After a lovely walk along Oslofjord, where you’ll find the striking Oslo Opera House, we discover the only café in the city center broadcasting the match live. Fortunately, Belgium wins 2-1 with goals from Fellaini and Dries Mertens. This turns out to be the only World Cup match we get to watch because Spitsbergen and the North Pole region appear to be the only places in the world where you can escape World Cup fever, unfortunately.
Since it’s mid-June and thanks to the Midnight Sun, daylight lasts well past midnight. We decide to make an evening visit to Vigeland Park. Oslo is already a very green city, but this expansive park with over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland is like the “Central Park” of Oslo. Even at this late hour, it’s crowded with walkers, joggers, and tourists. A short ride on the Airport Express takes us back to the hotel.
Day 2: Oslo – Longyearbyen
We have to rise early for the flight to Longyearbyen. The flight takes three hours, which is an hour longer than the flight from Brussels to Oslo. Upon disembarking, we are immediately greeted by our first polar bear, although it’s a stuffed specimen at the small airport. This must be one of the most photographed polar bears in the world. It’s clear that we are entering a completely different world. The shorts and T-shirts we were wearing in the center of Oslo yesterday have been replaced by fleece sweaters, hats, scarves, and ski jackets. It’s mid-June, and it’s about +5°C, which is considered high summer in Spitsbergen.
There are no taxis waiting outside the airport building, just a single bus that drops off passengers one by one at their hotels, B&Bs, or homestays for a fee. Longyearbyen can’t even be called a village; it consists of about ten long streets where nearly every resident tries to cash in on the booming tourist industry by renting rooms, stables, log cabins, containers, or anything they think tourists might sleep in for one night. There are only two (very expensive – supply and demand, you know) real hotels, and they are fully booked six months in advance, so making reservations well in advance is essential. Besides the most northern church, library, museum, and pretty much everything else, there’s not much to see or do in Longyearbyen. It lacks the charm of Ushuaia. Stranded passengers waiting for their expedition boat departure or flight to Oslo roam through the few streets as if they were extras in an episode of the zombie series “The Living Dead.” However, we do see remnants of the former mining activity around the village. It’s strictly prohibited to leave the village without a guide or a hunting rifle because the risk of encountering a polar bear outside the village limits is real.
Meanwhile, a stray reindeer is boredly chewing on a garbage bag, and we watch as a gigantic cruise ship docks at the only pier. For these passengers, this is the northernmost point they will visit during their cruise, while for us, it’s just the starting point of our adventure in the high north. Our ship is supplied at sea and looks like a Playmobil version of a boat when it docks next to the cruise ship. We’ll try to get a few hours of sleep despite the midnight sun. Between April 15th and August 26th, the sun never sets below the horizon, providing more than 4 months of continuous daylight in the archipelago. This is quite convenient if you appreciate more hours in a day.
Day 3: First Day on the Ship
The check-in process for the ship takes place on land. You’re assigned your cabin, and your luggage is tagged. After a short bus ride, we arrive at the pier. Since the entire harbor is occupied by that cruise ship, our boat cannot dock, so we have to board at sea. We receive a brief briefing on the bus from Cruise Director John, who familiarizes us with embarking and disembarking on the Zodiacs and teaches us a few seafaring techniques (grabbing each other by the wrist or arm, not the hand) to safely board the ship via the “mudroom.” Once on board, we’re escorted to our cabin where our luggage is already waiting for us. A tour of the ship follows, and we go through the mandatory safety procedures, ensuring that every passenger knows which lifeboat they should head to in case of an emergency. Each guest also receives a bright red wind-resistant parka and a pair of rubber boots and is assigned a fixed spot in the “mudroom,” from which at least two land or sea expeditions by Zodiac will depart every day. After a brief introduction to the crew, the day ends with a grand welcome buffet. One thing is immediately clear: we won’t go hungry on this journey as the ship sets sail to relatively uncharted territory.
Day 4: Hornsund
After a varied breakfast buffet, we received an extensive explanation of the safety measures on land when entering polar bear territory. In a nutshell, it comes down to this: four armed scouts establish a perimeter of about 1 square kilometer on land within which we can move freely. Leaving the safe perimeter is strictly prohibited. The scout on duty tells us plainly that, in the event of an encounter with a polar bear, he would prefer to shoot the passenger rather than the bear because it would involve less trouble and paperwork for him than shooting a protected species like a polar bear. “The penalties are also lighter,” he adds with a wry smile.
On the deck, we enjoy the incredible vistas that Hornsund Fjord has to offer. Surrounded by sharp mountains (aha moments) and majestic glaciers, you can clearly feel the dominance of the overwhelming nature. This is not a place for humans; there is no sign of human habitation anywhere, and you feel very humble. We are startled from our thoughts when the internal communication system spells out four letters: b-e-ar, b-e-ar, b-e-ar, b-e-ar.
At a distance of 100 meters from the ship on the port side, there is an adult male polar bear of approximately 600 kg feasting on the remains of a seal. Thanks to the skillful maneuvering of our crew, who manage to bring the ship even closer to the land, we have our first up-close-and-personal encounter with a polar bear. This is pure magic. The male polar bear seems unfazed by our presence, continues to indulge in its prey, takes a dip in the water from time to time, or heads to the higher snow-covered area in search of cooling, after which it returns to its prey. It’s like watching a Discovery Channel documentary happening live in multi-color and 3D before your eyes. The spectacle lasts for an hour or two, after which the bear decides to move calmly along the ridge and disappears from sight. Our journey is already a success.
In the afternoon, a Zodiac tour is on the agenda, during which the scouts skillfully navigate between pack ice and ice floes, and we are confronted with the silence and indescribable beauty of the icy landscape.
Day 5: Diskobutka
During the morning briefing, Cruise Director John asks who received a day-after-planning for the cruise route from his travel agency. When some passengers hesitantly raise their hands, he asks them to toss that planning into the trash can right away.
Our route is largely determined by the weather conditions and the pack ice. He suggests going ashore at Diskobukta. He tells us that it has been more than 5 years since the tides and weather conditions have been so favorable that our ship, the MS Expedition, can anchor in this bay. He recalls a gorge where there might be polar bears, reindeer, and tens of thousands of kittiwakes nesting during this period. The majority of the passengers vote in favor, and the first scouts go ashore to assess the situation on the spot. After an hour, when the scouts have established a safe and “bear-free” perimeter, the first passengers can go ashore using the small Zodiacs. Even on land, we keep our life jackets on at all times so that we can sprint to the Zodiacs immediately in case of a “bear alarm.”
The place exceeds our wildest expectations. A gigantic gorge with many ice meltwater waterfalls where tens of thousands of seagulls create a cacophony. This is Rock Werchter for bird enthusiasts. Among the birds, some Arctic foxes hunt, not bothered by our presence, and they feast on the birds that fall from the sky, rolling and fighting, only to helplessly disappear into the jaws of an Arctic fox. In the winter months, Arctic foxes are pure white, but now their fur is gray-brown, and they barely stand out on the tundra. They bury their prey and stock up enough food for the harsh winter, which begins as early as August in this polar region. This is not a walking dinner; it’s a flying buffet for the family of Arctic foxes. In the distance, a group of reindeer observes us. We are a tourist attraction for them. Nature at its finest.
In the afternoon, a second “landing” takes us to Kapp Lee, a fjord further away, where we find well-preserved cabins of 19th-century fur trappers and dozens of whale skeletons, gruesome reminders of more barbaric times.
An enormous walrus lies undisturbed, enjoying its afternoon nap right where we have landed. What a day once again.
Day 6: Stranding on the Ice
We sail through the strait that separates Spitsbergen Island from Nordaustlandet (literally the northeastern island). The landscape on the other island is rougher, darker, more ominous, and colder than on the west coast of Spitsbergen. In the morning, a Zodiac cruise is on the program along the cliffs of Nordauslandet. The massive granite cliffs that rise steeply up to 100 meters above the sea serve as a breeding ground for various bird species such as puffins, terns, seagulls, and around 100,000 guillemots. A paradise for ornithologists. Apart from the bird guano, nearly every square millimeter of the rocks is covered with birds. The screaming and screeching are deafening, but what a sight.
In the afternoon, our Italian captain has a surprise in store for us. Captain Giovanni Biasutti, being a true Italian, considers himself the rightful successor of Marco Polo and is always looking for sea straits and passages that have not been well charted. In terms of courage and audacity, he makes Captain Schettino of the Costa Concordia look like a timid boy who hardly dares to deviate from the prescribed routes.
Our MS Expedition is not a true icebreaker but can handle ice conditions up to 70% pack ice (70% ice with 30% water in a 1m2 area). At the northernmost point of our trip, our daring captain navigates us through increasingly thick ice and skillfully parks the ship in the ice cap. We, as passengers, are treated to a rare expedition, a walk on the sea ice or pack ice where no one has ever set foot before, “to boldly go where no man has ever gone before.” Unlike land ice, sea ice is much more treacherous; it constantly changes shape, density, and direction due to underground currents, but we thoroughly enjoy this unique excursion.
Day 7: Nordauslandet
In principle, the plan was to circumnavigate the entire Svalbard archipelago, but it’s been a strange winter. There was hardly any snow and ice on the west and south coasts of Spitsbergen, but in June, the sea around the northeast and north of the island is still covered with a thick layer of ice, making it impossible to circumnavigate the archipelago. We have reached the northernmost point of our trip, about 80° N, and we are still about 1,000 km from the geographic North Pole. The ship reverses out of the pack ice and is forced to turn around. No worries, there’s still plenty to see and experience along the way.
On the northeastern island, we go ashore at T
orellsnet, where a large walrus colony resides. Walruses are the opposite of polar bears. While polar bears are solitary, aggressively murderous, and kill almost anything in their path, walruses are the complete opposite: social, cuddly, and they always live in groups. On land, there are two large colonies consisting of about twenty specimens of all sizes and weights. The animals are not bothered by our presence, and we can approach them to within about 10 meters. You can watch them for hours. It’s a snorting and rumbling spectacle. Dozens of walruses, including some hefty males weighing up to 2,000 kg, move on, under, and around each other, but it’s touching how these giants go to great lengths not to crush the little ones with their massive bodies. If I were to reincarnate, I would consider coming back as a walrus.
Day 8: Sundnestet
At 5:30 in the morning, we are awakened from our sleep by the internal communication system. Our cruise director informs us that a mother bear with two cubs has been spotted ashore next to the ship. Those who wish can watch the scene unfold from the deck. Despite the ungodly hour, nearly all passengers are present. It’s well worth it. During this time of year, the sun never sets, so “bear sightings” can occur 24/7. After about an hour, the mother bear decides she’s had enough and leads her cubs out of sight of our ship. We can head to breakfast right away.
The rest of the day becomes a real expedition day, with visits to fjords and bays that have hardly been mapped. Treacherous rocks and stones are signaled and placed on the sonar to facilitate future expeditions.
In between, there’s an opportunity to stretch our legs and go ashore. Depending on your fitness level, you are offered the choice to sign up for various hikes of varying distances and difficulty levels, always accompanied by two armed scouts. The south coast of Nordauslandet is still pristine: tundra dotted with volcanoes, and those menacing ice caps in the background. We come across some wild reindeer. They were never hunted here; they don’t recognize danger in the presence of humans, and you can approach them to within about a meter. They simply stroll past you nonchalantly.
In the afternoon, the ship encounters a fast ice floe (sea ice that freezes and thaws rapidly, making it highly unpredictable), where a colony of seals seeks refuge. Unfortunately for them, they have also been discovered by six hungry polar bears. Polar bears usually live solitary lives, but hunger drives this group of bears together. The giants stand guard at the ice holes where seals surface to breathe and mercilessly strike when the seals come up. Nature at its most beautiful and its cruelest. The expedition from last week spotted barely 1 polar bear in the distance, but we see six bears in action here (albeit at a safe distance and from the Zodiac). I count my blessings.
Day 9: Isbjornhamma – Longyearbyen
On our last day on board, the thermometer takes a significant dip, with temperatures not rising above freezing point, and to make matters worse, thick fog suddenly descends. The biggest enemy of polar cruises is fog, which can mean sailing in pea soup for a whole week with virtually nothing to see. Fortunately, we have been spared until this last day.
Our captain receives permission (in exchange for the necessary number of bottles of vodka) to go ashore and visit the Polish North Pole station. Poland is one of the few countries in the Arctic region to have a permanently manned polar station. They study climate change and the associated changing behavior of polar bears and whales. Due to the dense fog, our hike takes on an eerie quality.
In the afternoon, Cruise Director John and our crazy Captain Giovanni offer daredevils the opportunity to literally immerse themselves in the Arctic sea through a so-called Polar Plunge. This involves jumping into the sea in swim trunks from the ship and being attached to a chain so that you can be immediately pulled back on board in case of a sudden heart attack, which is not unthinkable. Not for heart patients, but the ship’s doctor keeps a watchful eye. Yours truly, never one to back down from a challenge, takes the plunge. The icy seawater, with a temperature of 2°C, cuts through your frozen bones like a knife, but afterwards, you immediately feel reborn. It’s a thrill comparable to bungee jumping. A glass of aquavit, however, quickly perks you up. In the evening, there’s an extensive farewell dinner offered by the captain (who managed to blow up one of the ship’s five engines on the way back due to excessive speed), and we dock in Longyearbyen at half speed. It’s going to be a short night because we have our flight back to Oslo and civilization at 5 in the morning.
Conclusion
A cruise around Spitsbergen/Svalbard offers an unforgettable experience and is highly recommended for anyone who holds nature close to their heart and wants something different from the usual beaches and coasts. It’s not ideal for those who can’t tolerate the cold, although the temperature is generally bearable. Whether this trip is right for you is hard to determine. I’m not typically a cruise person and wouldn’t easily set foot on a regular cruise ship. But this is an entirely different experience. While you won’t lack for anything on board, and the mostly Filipino crew will do everything to make you comfortable, don’t expect great luxury. There’s no swimming pool, jacuzzi, or casino on board. However, you won’t be bored. In addition to the daily two “landings,” there are daily lectures about life in the polar regions. These lectures are given in English by the scouts and provide further material for discussion. Whether you should visit the South Pole or the North Pole depends on your personal preference (do you want a chance to see polar bears or penguins?). The MS Expedition visits both poles (Antarctica during our winter months and the North Pole in the summer). Svalbard has the advantage that you can go on an expedition immediately after a few hours of sailing, while for Antarctica, you have to cross the Drake Passage and spend a total of 3 days at sea without going ashore. Moreover, it can get quite stormy there (the so-called ‘Drake Shake’), while you are relatively protected from the elements and are less likely to get seasick when cruising around Svalbard.
Nature cannot be forced, as always. We were very lucky to spot 12 polar bears on this trip but, for example, no whales. Meanwhile, the trip just before ours only saw 1 polar bear but encountered humpback whales, orcas, and even some narwhals (toothed whales with a distinctive large tusk). Also, consider the financial aspect; expect to pay around €5,000 for one week on the boat (excluding flights and accommodation before and after the trip). But we found this trip worth every penny. As far as we’re concerned, it won’t be our last encounter with one of the last relatively pristine areas on Earth, and we will definitely cross the Arctic Circle a few more times.”
Dirk Van Der Auwera (text and photos)
